Valle De Guadalupe
For the last several years, after telling people I love wine, I’m consistently asked, “Have you been to the wine valley?” Or the more insulting, “Have you had Stella Rosa?” To answer the questions: No, I have never been, and no, I have never tried. So, I attempted the former for a quick trip south of the border, down Mexico way to Valle de Guadalupe. I started off my morning early, as I was told that where we were going for breakfast, it is crucial to get there early or face several hours of waiting. I crossed Mexico's border into Tijuana at 6:30 am and was greeted by Ruben and his wife, Paola, who are residents of the city. We drove west first towards Playas, then south past the coastal cities of Rosarito and Puerto Nuevo. I remember vividly being overwhelmed by the beauty of Salsipuedes Bay, a favorite of Ruben's. Bending the corner, you get a cliff's view of the entire bay as the sun struggled to pierce the clouds and lightly illuminate the water below. No words to describe it would do it justice. Ruben commented, “I love to look at the view as I drive." I jokingly suggested not to "look too hard," as one wrong move could hurl us over the side like a clumsy acrobat to a mangled demise. Just north of Ensenada, you start to head northeast towards Valle de Guadalupe, where Spanish missionaries first brought wines, and later the lands were cultivated by Russians exiled to Mexico fleeing Czarist repression. Going from paved to dirt roads, we arrived at our first destination, La Cocina de Doña Esthela.
La Cocina de Doña Esthela, a restaurant that seemed in the middle of nowhere, attached to a ranch where you could view the future meals themselves, the true meaning of farm to table. As soon as I walked in, I was hooked; we got a table next to the ladies making fresh corn and flour tortillas on the plancha right in front of us. Our breakfast started off with Café de Olla, a Mexican coffee made in a clay pot spiced with cinnamon, piloncillo and sometimes cloves, and star anise. Chips and salsa with cubes of queso fresco arrived while Ruben ordered for the table 3 separate gorditas of chicharron, nopales, and chorizo accompanied by Hotcake de Elote, and Borrego Tatemado, which the menu elegantly described in Spanish as "delicious solid lamb meat, cooked underground Doña Esthela style; it is served dry and accompanied by its delicious juice and beans." The tatemado arrived escorted with freshly pressed and cooked corn and flour tortillas, lamb consommé, beans, as well as traditional accoutrements like cilantro, onions, and limes. I pinched the tender lamb meat off the bones with a piece of flour tortilla and dipped it in the consommé, placing it in my mouth. The flavor and feeling that ensued were worth the trip alone. You can tell that after the lamb was slow-cooked, it was pressed on the flattop, giving you multiple textures and mouth feels of the lamb—from the richness of the fat to the melting of the meat in your mouth, to the crispiness from the flattop. The beans were lardy and lovely, and the consommé I wanted to bathe in. My final thought leaving La Cocina de Doña Esthela was that I wished I could smuggle the tortilla lady home. Leading up to the trip, I was told how good the food at Doña Esthela was. Ruben would say, “I hope I'm not overselling it.” Not at all, my friend, not at all. In fact, it was undersold.
With stomachs filled to the brim, we were on to the next destination, which seemed to be the only suitable option at this time of the day: a winery named L.A. Chetto.
At this point, it was only 10 am, and I had never drunk wine that early. However, shortly after, I realized it was something I could get used to. Ruben described L.A. Chetto as Mexico’s most popular wine, mentioning that you could find it served in almost any restaurant. We were undecided on which wine to enjoy, so we settled on a tasting of their various wines. Our sommelier was more than generous with her pours as we tasted Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Fumé Blanc, Petite Sirah, and Gamay. The wines were robust and flavorful without a strong aftertaste, which I prefer. However, I cannot tell you that I tasted the oak from the barrels or the apricot or cherries, as I never can, so I will not amuse you and say otherwise. It was just delicious, and at that time, that was all I needed to taste. With almost half glass pours per bottle at a relatively quick pace during the tasting and an additional bottle of Chardonnay after, it was suggested that it was time for a snack at our next destination, Bruma Wine Garden.
It was a short 10-minute drive from L.A Chetto to Bruma Wine Garden, an open-air restaurant where you sit at an extremely large table unified with the other guests under olive trees that provide more than enough shade during the summer months. The company sitting across from us was interesting: a snobby-looking man with his jacket zipped up to his chin, with a blanket draped over his shoulders like a cloak while he sat next to a patio heater. I’ll admit it was a bit chilly that day, but his wife only bore a jacket, which in my mind bestowed upon him the title of a pussy. Before we began our meal, we started off with more drinks, Ruben having a mezcal and myself, a white Negroni. I was told the fish ceviche was a must, so it was ordered along with an Octopus and shrimp pizza and Vegetables con Chintextle, which is a smoked paste of various chilies and oils and vinegar from the region of Oaxaca, which I would equate it to similar in texture to hummus. The ceviche arrived, and it was an absolute beauty in color, varying in different shades of green, fresh fish, cucumber, and lime served with broken up tostada shells. It would’ve been perfect on a hot summer day; hell, it was damn near perfect then. The octopus and shrimp pizza with squid ink arrived shortly after, and the flavors ranged with garlicky goodness, the briny saltiness from the squid ink, which paired well with the creaminess of the cheese and the meaty chunks of properly cooked octopus and shrimp. If you know me, then you know that pizza is one of my favorites due to its versatility; this pizza and its various textures and flavor didn’t disappoint as it felt that multiple erogenous zones on my tongue were hit. The Vegetables con Chintextle arrived next, and it was served with a flatbread similar to the style of a Roti. The Chintextle was Smokey and earthy and was a perfect pairing with the fresh well-seasoned vegetables, and when scooped up with the buttery flavor of the bread, it made a lovely pairing. The food was great, but my favorite moment at the Wine Garden had to do with my company. Towards the end of the meal, it was getting a bit more chilly and Ruben's wife had asked the waiter for a blanket, one like they supplied the nameless individual previously mentioned. The waiter had asked Ruben if he would like a blanket as well, and Ruben politely replied as he glanced at the delicate man sitting across from us, “No, I am not a bitch”.
Ruben and his wife casually went back and forth on where we should go for our final spot of the day, and it was decided that we would go to Bodegas Magoni. A 15-minute drive down the road from Bruma Wine Garden was Bodegas Magoni, a family-owned winery in Mexico's coveted wine-growing region where you can enjoy a glass or a bottle of their premium wines under a massive oak tree, and perhaps even a charcuterie board. Ruben and his wife opted for another bottle of Chardonnay and ordered the mixed charcuterie board, which had various meats and cheeses along with locally made bread and Magoni’s own olive oil. We sat under the large oak tree, entertained by the live band, whose sound varied from covers of Amy Winehouse to Antônio Carlos Jobim. The ambiance created by the environment and the band paired perfectly with the wine and the food, enhancing the overall experience of the afternoon. After finishing the bottle, it was sad to say that it was time to go home.
The ride back to Tijuana was mostly quiet, falling in and out of an occasional nap caused by the food and wine. The views were still stunning as the afternoon sun was on its way down from a hard day's work. After a quick drive through downtown TJ, a taco tour was suggested for the future, a request I would be more than obliged to consider. While waiting in line to cross the border back into San Diego, I reflected on my brief time in Valle de Guadalupe. Not only would I go back to the restaurants and wineries I already explored, but I would also Airbnb for a couple of days and look to experience far more of the local culture, food, markets, and people, as I am more than confident of the treasures to be uncovered. I am not well-traveled, but I plan to be, and one thing I learned that is just as important as the food and wine you consume, is the company you keep. Ruben and Paola were more than gracious and knowledgeable while introducing me to Valle de Guadalupe. Great people, great wine, and great food. It was a pleasure, and a desire to one day return again.